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Vinyl
Decals Application
Optional
Tools:
Soap Solution (use any soap without wax or silicon additives.)
Application Fluid and Spray Bottle (several drops of dish soap in one
gallon of
water.)
Squeegee (or two bank cards, back to back.)
Any Based Cleaner
Masking Tape
Each decal has three pieces:
1. The top layer is the transfer tape.
2. The middle layer is the vinyl decal.
3. The bottom layer is the backing paper.
You should read these instructions all the way through before starting.
The surface must be clean, and free of all oils, waxes and
dirt. Use
Windex or a comparable cleaner to clean the glass. If you use
Rainex, try
Formula 409 to remove it. These decals come to you in three
layers.
The top layer is called transfer tape. It looks somewhat like regular
masking
tape. The middle layer is the actual decal. The bottom layer is a
backing paper
treated with a release agent.
Aligning and Centering Vinyl Decal:
Measure where you want the decal to be applied. About 2” above
and below
the outside of where the decal will actually be placed, apply a piece
of
masking tape as wide as the decal, making sure it is level. You
may also
do this to the left and right of the decal. You will use this
masking
tape as a reference to make sure your decal is aligned properly.
Application using the Dry Transfer Method:
You will need big needle or ice pick, and a credit card or similar
plastic
squeegee. Try to do at room temperature or above, the warmer it
is, the
better it works, but try not to do in direct sunlight. Take
credit card
and flatten from both sides by rubbing over decal. Make sure all
bubbles are
out as much as possible. Look to see if the Decals are cut for
the inside
or the outside. Turn decal upside down and pull backing off,
SLOWLY. The backing is the heavier gauge paper. Using
needle or
similar pointed object, hold edges of letters and all small areas while
pulling
away backing. If a letter moves, just position back in place by
pushing
backing down and move letter back to original position. Position
decal
and flatten from the center out. Use credit card again to flatten as
much as
possible. The transfer tape will allow you to rub the decal
without
damaging it. Peel back edge of transfer tape slowly, watching for
small
letters and corners to make sure they are stuck to glass, and not to
tape. Take your fingers and check all edges and make sure they
are tight.
If you have an air bubble, use a pin and poke a small hole, allowing
air to
escape. The bubbles may disappear after a day or two. Once
the
decal touches the glass or paint, it cannot be moved again!
PLEASE DO NOT
GET IN A HURRY!
Application using the Wet Transfer Method:
(recommended on most windshield applications, unless you have done this
before.)
Mix a gallon or so of water with a few drops of dishwashing
liquid. Use a
spray bottle and wet the area where decal is to be applied. Trim
away the
transfer tape so that the tape is about (within 1/2") the size as the
decal. Remove the backing and place the decal, still attached to
the transfer
tape, to the thoroughly wetted surface. The decal can now be
moved and
repositioned correctly, as it will slide on the thin film of solution
trapped
between the vinyl decal and the surface. If you are doing a
windshield
decal and need to curve the letters, cut the tape between the letters
about 3/4
of the way from top to bottom with a knife and position the letters
where
needed. DO NOT cut all the way through as this will mess up the
spacing
between the letters. When the decal is in the final location, use
a small
squeegee to squeeze the water and soap solution out from under the
decal.
The transfer tape will protect the decal during this process.
Caution!
Be sure to squeegee as much solution as possible from under the
decal.
Take your time, because if not enough solution is removed from under
the decal,
it will not adhere to the surface enough to allow the easy removal of
the
transfer tape. Although a squeegee is the recommend tool, the
water can
be also removed using the fingers, or a soft cloth. When finished
with
the squeegee, the transfer tape can be carefully removed. Work
the decal
with your fingers, and a soft, absorbent cloth around the edges to
remove any
remaining solution. Warm weather is best for this
application. If
there are bubbles present under the decal that cannot be removed by
working
them to the edge of the decal with your fingers, then a small pin or
needle can
be used to puncture the decal at the bubble, and remove the air.
A small
pinhole will not be seen after the air bubble has been worked out with
the
fingers.
Maintenance:
In colder climates, decals on windows of vehicles can be damaged by the
scraping of frost or ice from the windows. Mild window cleaner
may be
used to clean the windows without damage to the decal. On painted
surfaces of vehicles, care must be taken when waxing. Wax will
build up
around the edges of the Decal, and will need to be removed. Use a
soft
cloth, and take your time, and be gentle. A brush, for example
will force
the wax underneath the edge of the Decal, and the Decal will begin to
peel. The Decal will not be damaged by normal use of automotive
car wash
products, or water. Although the decals will withstand pressure
washers,
and automatic car washes, these will reduce the life and appearance of
the
decal. The decals will not last forever, but will give many years
of
service if taken care of.
Removing Vinyl Decals:
On glass surfaces, with temperatures between 70 and 80 degrees
Fahrenheit, a
razor blade scraper can be used. Decals can be removed from
painted
surfaces by using a heat gun or
hair dryer to warm the decal to appoint where it peels off easily.
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